prof. PhD Wolfgang Nairz (Austria) – climber, writer
Stars of Banskofilmfest 2023
prof. PhD Wolfgang Nairz (Austria) – Presentation day 24th of November, 20:00h, Big Hall, Culture Center “Nikola Vapcarov”, Bansko city
Wolfgang Nairz (born 27 November 1944 in Kitzbühel) is an Austrian mountain climber, who did many tours in the Himalayas as an expedition leader. He was one of the three first Austrian to stand on top of Mount Everest.
After being trained as a mountain and skiing guide in 1967, Nairz surveyed glaciers for ten years, and then became a teacher in the training program for mountain guides.
In 1972 he led his first expedition to the Himalayas, to the South face of Manaslu. Reinhold Messner made the first ascent of that face. In 1974 he led an unsuccessful to the South face of Makalu. Expeditions in 1974 and 1976 set new altitude records, on Noshak, for hanggliding. In 1978 he led the first Austrian expedition to Mount Everest, and with Robert Schauer and Horst Bergmann he summited: this was the first successful Austrian ascent of the mountain. During this same expedition, Reinhold Messner and Peter Habeler climbed to the top without supplementary oxygen, and Franz Oppurg made the first solo ascent. Nairz led two expeditions to Ama Dablam (1979 and 1985). Winter expeditions in 1982 to Cho Oyu and to Dhaulagiri failed, but Messner and Hans Kammerlander were successful on Makalu in 1986. In all, Nairz traveled over 70 times to Nepal and Tibet.
prof. Nairz will present also the film “Sturm um Manaslu” of Reinhold Messner – Bulgarian premiere during Bansko film fest 2023.
“Sturm um Manaslu”, Germany, 2022, director, 101 min.