Matteo della Bordella started climbing at the age of 12, under the guidance of his father. In his early years he climbed routes of moderate difficulty. By the age of 19, he had repeated several classical Alpine routes.
On his 21st birthday (4 July 2005), accompanied by his father, he climbed the famous historic line “The Fish Route” (“Cesta přes rybu”) on Marmolada — a route that marks his transition into serious mountaineering. In the same year, together with Fabio Palma, he made the first ascent of the route “Portami Via” on the Wendenstöcke — a line later repeated by few climbers such as Ueli Steck, Simon Anthamatten, and Tommy Caldwell.
In the first six years of his career, he deepened his technical skills by repeating classic Alpine lines: Philipp‑Flamm (Civetta), Vinatzer‑Messner (Marmolada), Cassin (Pizzo Badile), and Bonatti‑Ghigo (Grand Capucin).
From 2006 he became a member of the prestigious Ragni di Lecco (“Spiders of Lecco”), and in 2008 joined the Italian Academic Alpine Club (CAAI). He holds a master’s degree in Management Engineering and a PhD from Carlo Cattaneo University in Castellanza.
Awards:
Premio Cassin (2008, 2009) — for the route Coelophysis (with Fabio Palma) and for Greenland expeditions including first ascents of Ingirumimusnocte and Emozione Polare.
Grignetta d’Oro (2015) — awarded to the best Italian mountaineer, honoring his performance and visionary approach to climbing.
Major Expeditions:
Greenland (2014): First ascent of a new route on the northeast wall of Shark Tooth — ~900 m of pure climbing, without artificial protections or leaving gear on the wall. The expedition included 200 km by kayak and 25 km on foot. Run in by fair means style.
Torre Egger, Patagonia (2011–2013): With Matteo Bernasconi, he carried out expeditions on the west face, opening new lines and making a speed ascent under difficult conditions.
Uli Biaho Tower, Karakoram (2013): Together with Luca Schiera and Silvan Schüpbach, he completed a first ascent of ~500 m, 17 pitches on the east face, with minimal use of artificial aids.
Fitz Roy, Argentina (2014–2016): Created new variants of classic routes and made clean repeats of the legendary Via dei Ragni—1,300 m, 40 pitches, climbed over two days with bivouacs.
Greenland (2021): First ascent of “Forum” on Siren Tower (700 m, 7c+), in by fair means style.
Cerro Piergiorgio, Patagonia (2025): Opened new route “Gringos Locos” (27 pitches, 5.11d, A2) on the northwest face.
Baintha Kabata, Pakistan (2023): First ascent of Pilastro Sud (6,250 m) in pure alpine style under extreme conditions.
India (2022): Participation in an expedition on Shiva’s Line in the Parvati Valley, with an ethical, light-footprint approach.
Global presence: Matteo has also climbed in England, Spain, Switzerland, the USA, Mexico, Chile, and Argentina.
Matteo della Bordella practices a philosophy of “clean alpinism”: minimal gear, no fixed ropes, no leaving traces. He views the journey to the rock as part of the adventure — whether by foot, kayak, or bike.
As a member of the Eagle Team within the Italian Alpine Club, Matteo actively mentors young climbers, encouraging both technical growth and ethical awareness toward nature. He shares his passion and experiences through books, lectures, and film screenings.
Sources
Matteo della Bordella Official Website
Climbing Guide BG