Martin Sieberer

ice and mixed climber, mountain guide, alpinist
Role
Official Guest
Country
Austria

Martin Sieberer is an alpinist who discovered climbing around the age of 25. Despite this, his late enthusiasm quickly evolved into a passionate dedication that has become a defining part of his identity. For Martin, climbing is not just a sport but a daily source of happiness and a constant opportunity to face new challenges.

With strong skills in ice and mixed climbing, as well as formal training as a mountain guide and experience as an industrial climber, Martin has firmly established himself in the alpine world. However, beyond the technical aspects, it is the unknown that drives him—pushing him to seek new adventures on both rock and ice.

His expeditions often lead him to remote countries in search of untouched peaks and wild places. Yet, there are also numerous rock and ice challenges near his adopted home of Innsbruck. Martin enjoys sharing his passion for the beauty of the mountains through mountain guiding, lectures, talks, and social media.

His philosophy is simple: if you have found a passion that brings you happiness every day, you are on the right path.

Martin’s driving force is adventure. Even though much of the Alps has been explored and developed, he believes many adventures remain to be discovered.

Guided by the motto “experience instead of consumption,” Martin approaches every tour and expedition with authenticity and minimalism. For him, minimalism in the mountains means taking only what is necessary and leaving behind only what is essential. He places great importance on tradition and ethics, especially when developing new alpine routes.

His love for climbing and mental resilience in alpine terrain have allowed him to complete numerous challenging routes and first ascents. Martin embodies the spirit of modern alpinism, constantly seeking new, complex, and demanding challenges.

Highlights & First Ascents

  • Black Tooth (6,718 m) – First ascent with Simon Messner in the Karakoram, Pakistan
    Nominated for the Piolet d’Or; Winner of the Premio Paolo Consiglio (CAI) Golden Ice Axe

  • Eremit – First ascent in Pinnistal, Austria, graded M9-/WI7- (alpine style)

  • Semifreddo – First ascent in Pordoi, Dolomites, Italy, 7c alpine, 180 m

  • Goodbye Innsbrooklyn – First ascent on Schrammacher, Valsertal, Austria, 800 m
    Nominated for the Piolet d’Or

  • Yernamandu Kangri (7,180 m) – First ascent in the Karakoram, Pakistan

  • Schrammacher Direttissima – First ascent in Valsertal, Austria