Toncho Tonchev

Тончо Тончев

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Toncho Tonchev is one of Bulgaria’s most accomplished high-altitude mountaineers and the first Bulgarian to make a solo ascent of Nanga Parbat (8,125 m). He is also the only Bulgarian to have climbed Dhaulagiri (8,167 m) twice without supplemental oxygen—in 1995 with Radko Rachev, and again in 1997 with Nikolay Petkov, when they completed the first Bulgarian ascent of an eight-thousander entirely in alpine style.

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Presentation: “The History of Ascents of Dhaulagiri (8,167 m) in the Nepalese Himalayas”

Toncho Tonchev is one of Bulgaria’s most accomplished mountaineers. He has been active in mountaineering since 1984, when he joined the Ambaritsa Alpine Club in Troyan. He has made numerous ascents in the Bulgarian mountains, the Polish and Slovak Tatras, the Alps and the Dolomites.

In 1992, he took part in an expedition to Gasherbrum in the Karakoram, reaching an altitude of 7,500 m. In 1993, he became the first Bulgarian to make a solo ascent of an eight-thousander, summiting Nanga Parbat (8,125 m).

In 1997, together with Nikolay Petkov, he completed the first Bulgarian ascent of an eight-thousander entirely in alpine style, climbing Dhaulagiri (8,167 m).

Major Ascents

Himalayas

  • 1993 – Nanga Parbat (8,125 m)
  • 1995 and 1997 – Dhaulagiri (8,167 m); in 1997, the first Bulgarian ascent of an eight-thousander entirely in alpine style, together with Nikolay Petkov
  • 1997 – Hongde (6,400 m)
  • 2005 – Dampus (6,012 m)

Karakoram

  • 1992 – Gasherbrum expedition, reaching 7,500 m

Pamirs

  • 1988 – Korzhenevskaya Peak (7,105 m)
  • 2003 – Lenin Peak (7,134 m)

Tien Shan

  • 1995 – Khan Tengri (7,010 m)

Andes

  • 2018 – Aconcagua (6,963 m), together with Mihail Tonchev
  • 2026 – Ojos del Salado, together with Boyan and Mihail Tonchev

Tonchev has also made numerous summer and winter ascents in the Bulgarian mountains, the Caucasus, the Alps, the Tatras and other mountain ranges.

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