Boyan Petrov (Bulgaria)
The highest point in the world is of course Mount Everest. But its commercialization over the years is making it less and less attractive for trained climbers. K2, the second highest peak on the globe which lies in Pakistan near the northern border with China, is more challenging for the master mountaineers. The harsh rocky pyramid glorified for its capricious climate turns into the place of death of 29 of every 100 climbers who dare to go there.
On July 31, 2014 for the first time a Bulgarian set foot on K2. Thus, after reaching the highest points of Kanchenjunga in May – 8586 m (the first ascent of a Bulgarian), and Broad Peak on July 23 (8047 m, the first documented ascent of a Bulgarian) without oxygen and without the help of Sherpas, Boyan Petrov, who is diabetic, became the first Bulgarian to climb 3 eight-thousanders within 100 days. His dual ascent, of Broad Peak and K2 within 8 days, is a world record. For these impressive achievements the Bulgarian climber was greeted with a video message by mountaineering legend Reinhold Messner and Italian sports journalist of Gazzetta dello Sport, Sandro Fillipini.
Expedition experience
Member and leader of research and mountaineering expeditions in Kazakhstan (1990), France, Spain and Italy (1992—1994), Greece (2000, 2006—2009), Turkey (2000, 2006—2009), Romania (2000), Karakoram (Pakistan, 2001, 2005, 2009), Pamir (Kirghizia, 2003; Tajikistan, 2010), Andes (Argentina, 2004), Alaska (USA, 2004), Caucasus (Russia, 2004), Tien Shan (Kazakhstan, 2007), Kenya, Uganda and Tanzania (2009).
Mountain climber with 17 summits above 5000 m (16400 ft):
2014 — K2 (8611 m) in Pakistan
2014 — Broad Peak (8047 m) in Pakistan
2014 — Kangchenjunga (8586 m) in Nepal
2010 — Ismoil Somoni (7495 m) in Tajikistan
2010 — Korzhenevskaya (7105 m) in Tajikistan
2009 — Gasherbrum-2 (8035 m) up to 8030 m in Pakistan
2009 — Gasherbrum-1 (8068 m) in Pakistan
2009 — Margherita (5109 m) in Uganda
2009 — Mount Kenya (5199 m) in Kenya up to 5100 m
2009 — Kilimanjaro (5895 m) in Tanzania
2007 — Khan Tengri (6995 m) in Kazakhstan
2005 — K2 (8611 m) in Pakistan up to 8200 m
2004 — Elbrus (5642 m) in Russia
2004 — Denali (6195 m) in the USA
2004 — Aconcagua (6962 m) in Argentina
2003 — Lenin (7134 m) in Kirghizia
2001 — Demavend (5671 m) in Iran
2001 — Broad Peak (8047 m) up to 7300 m in Pakistan
2000 — Ararat (5137 m) in Turkey