Alessandro Gogna (Italy)

Stars of Bansko film fest 2019 

Alessandro Gogna (Italy) – Italian mountaineer, writer, adventurer and mountain guide –  Presentaion day – 23th of November, 18:45h., Big Hall, Culture center “Nikola Vapcarov”, Bansko 

Alessandro Gogna was born in Genoa (Italy), 29 july 1946, an lives in Milan (Italy). He is a mountaineer and climber, alpine guide, with his achievements of 300 first ascents in the Alps, Appennino and other mountain ranges. He is one of the key figures of Italian mountaineering, both as an active climber and as one of the foremost writer about the mountain world. He has lived and described the transition from classic mountaineering to modern climbing.

The first ascents were on the mountains of his native Liguria, then his interest moved to the walls of the Dolomites and later he has climbed in all the possible environment, from sea level to the high camps of K2. He count over 500 new climbs in Italy.

He still is one of the international guarantors of Mountain Wilderness having been among the founders.

In 1981, Alessandro Gogna, with Maurizio Zanolla, climbed the Aguglia of Goloritzè in Sardinia, initiating the original development of the Selvaggio Blua trekking route.



A. Gogna sulla via Messner al Pilastro di Mezzo del Sass dla Crusc. 26.07. 1983

He was in Himalayan and Karakorum expeditions (Annapurna north-west spur (1973), Lhotse South face (1975) and K2 Abruzzi Spur (1979). From 1982 Gogna is an opinion leader influencing the mountain community, specially about mountaineering’s history, nature’s attendance and mountain conservation. He was on of the first mountaineers to care mountain tourism’s problems and he was a founder of Mountain Wilderness International. In the last years his interests went to the mountain freedom’s problems. From 2013 he send a daily post on his GognaBlog, He wrote almost 60 books. The most important are: Un alpinismo di ricerca (Dall’Oglio, 1975), K2 (De Agostini, 1980), 100 nuovi mattini (Zanichelli, 1981), La parete (Zanichelli, 1981), Mezzogiorno di pietra (Zanichelli, 1982), Rock Story (Melograno, 1983), A piedi in Valtellina (DeAgostini, 1984), Sentieri Verticali (Zanichelli, 1987), la collana I Grandi Spazi delle Alpi (8 volumi, dal 1995 al 2003), Dolomiti e calcari di nord-est (CDAVivalda, 2007), Insieme in vetta (con Alessandra Raggio, Mondadori, 2013) e La Pietra dei Sogni (Versante Sud, 2014), La Valle della Luce (Altri Spazi, 2019). Some of them have been translated in other languages.

Alessandro Gogna sulla 2a L della via Gogna allo Scoglio di Mroz, Valle dell'Orco

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