Matteo della Bordella (Italy) – big wall climber – Presentation day of Banskofilmfest2017 – 24th of November, 20:15h, Big Hall, Culture center “Nikola Vapcarov”, Bansko.

His father introduced him to climbing and mountaineering when he was 12, and for the following 10 years. They climbed together many classic routes all over the Alps, in the dolomites, Wenden, Mont Blanc etc…

In 2005 Matteo had his first experience of opening a new route in the mountains, ground up, with a machine drill; in the following years with the fellow Fabio Palma we opened and free climbed 3 amazing new routes on the perfect limestone of Wendenstocke (Portami Via, Coelophysis, Infinite Jest). After many years of climbing in the Alps he started travelling abroad.

Matteo della Bordella

In 2010 he went for the first time to Patagonia and fell in love with that place and those mountains;  He has had also other important trips such as the one to Yosemite in 2012, when he free climbed El Cap, the one to Pakistan in 2013, when they opened a new route on Uli Biaho tower (6109m) and the amazing adventure of summer 2014 to East Greenland, where after more than 200km of kayaking they opened an amazing new free-climbing route on the virgin North face of Shark’s tooth.

 

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Since 2006 he is a member of the group “Ragni di Lecco” and in 2008 I joined the Italian Academic Alpine Club (CAAI). I’ve got a master degree in industrial engineering and worked for some years as a researcher in the Information Systems field.
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CAREER HIGHLIGHTS

  • 2005:Marmolada, route “through the fish” onsight in one day with my Dad “Portami via”, Wenden, 7c+ max expo, new route
  • 2008:“Coelophysis”, Wenden, 8a+ max 650 meters, new route
  • 2009:First extra-european expedition to Greenland (Fox Jaw), 2 new routes opened
  • 2011:Many new route in the alps i.e. “Infinite Jest”, wenden; “Non è un paese per vecchi” and” Il mito della caverna”, Canton ticino
  • 2012:Free climbed El Capitan, Yosemite for the route “freerider”, 7c max
  • 2013:First ascent of Torre Egger west face, Patagonia 1200m 7a/A2/WI4
  • 2013:First ascent of Uli biaho south-west face, Pakistan, 700m 6b/A0
  • 2014:First ascent of Shark’s tooth north face, Greenland, 900m, 7b+ onsight, by fair means with approach by kayak
  • 2015:New variation on the Casarotto Pillar of Fitz Roy, Patagonia, 1350m, 7a+
  • 2016: New mixed route El Valor del Mideo (1000m, 90, M6+, A2)

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